At 3,867 m, on a forested saddle between two river valleys, Tengboche Monastery occupies what may be the finest position of any building in the Himalaya. Ama Dablam rises directly behind the courtyard; Everest and Lhotse fill the gap to the north.
A short history
Founded in 1916, Tengboche is the largest gompa in the Khumbu and the spiritual centre of Sherpa Buddhism. It has been rebuilt twice — after an earthquake in 1934 and a fire in 1989 that destroyed many of its original texts and murals. What stands today is a careful reconstruction, funded largely by the climbing community.
Attending a puja
Prayer ceremonies are usually held in the early morning and again around 3 pm, and visitors are welcome. Sit at the back, remove your shoes and hat, do not photograph the monks during prayers without asking, and move clockwise around the interior. A small donation in the box by the door is customary.
Mani Rimdu
If you are trekking in October or November, check the dates. Mani Rimdu is a three-day festival of masked dance, chanting and blessings that draws Sherpa families from across the region. It is one of the great living festivals of the Himalaya and worth reshaping an itinerary around.
Practical notes
- Lodges at Tengboche are limited and fill fast in peak season; many trekkers stay at Deboche, twenty minutes further on and noticeably warmer.
- The climb up from the Dudh Koshi is steep — around 600 m — and comes at the end of the day. Pace it.
- Mornings are far clearer than afternoons here. If you want the Ama Dablam photograph, take it at dawn.
- There is a bakery. It is better than it has any right to be at this altitude.
Respect the setting
Tengboche is a working monastery, not a museum. Monks live and study here year-round. Keep your voice down in the courtyard, ask before photographing people, and dress modestly — covered shoulders and long trousers.
Every one of our Everest region treks passes through Tengboche, most with an overnight stop.
